The narcissi bulb is an important part of the spring garden plan. I believe that this is a direct result of their winter hardiness. There are so many color types that adds to their attraction in the spring garden.
This bulb can be set in open spaces between shrubs, or be arranged at the boundary of a woods or in the woods, if you have a path it would be perfect, and in the garden or lawn itself. A very versatile bulb indeed is the narcissi bulb.
I prefer them in my inventory of spring bulbs as they present that early color like the crocus. They are best, in the garden, if planted with other perennials that will come into bloom later or just emerging from the long winter rest.
The fringe benefit from this arrangement will occur as your later perennials will effectively obscure the fading foliage of the narcissi bulb. This is for those gardeners who detest watching expiring foliage.
I had noted before that bulbs maybe planted between shrubs, but allow me to point out that the narcissi bulb can also be planted beneath the shrub displaying their tolerance for a certain measure of shade. It would be interesting to plant them with shrubs that flower early like a rhododendron or perhaps under a flowering Kousa dogwood tree.
There are many classifications in the narcissi bulb group which constitutes another spring flower with a long list of varieties. There is not sufficient room to go into each nor enough space to image them all.
I will mention a few, as most cultivate the same, and if you care to know more about this just write me at the contact us form on my site*.
• Small Cupped Narcissi
• Narcissus Large Cupped
• Trumpet Narcissi(daffodils)
• Double Narcissi
• Tazetta Narcissi
• Narcissi Jonquilla
I could go on and on with these different categorizations but consider it a waste of reading time in addition to being boring. Most everyone is acquainted with the large and small cupped variety and the others, you are able to look up or send me a contact us form and I will be happy to forward some information.
Narcissi Bulb How To Plant In The Fall For Spring Blooms
Now there’s an extraordinary narcissi bulb that I didn’t even have in the list. You come across something new everyday as I just discovered its existence. I will have to sample and plant a few never too old or been gardening too long to learn something fresh.
The Narcissi bulb enjoys a soil in good fertile condition. Again, the same problem exists here as with others of the bulb family concerning a clay soil. You will need to blend sand in liberally with some compost or organic matter.
I would go to my garden shop and ascertain what is recommended for fertilizer dressing. There are a few beneficial commercial grades of bulb fertilizer but if you prefer to do it yourself than this is what I recommend.
Bone meal is the common fertilizer of choice for a narcissi bulb this material releases the phosphorus very slowly. This material, however, is too low in nitrogen to be used by itself.
The really excellent material to mix with bone meal is wood ash. Yes you read this correctly. I would, for most situations, apply 3 to 4 pounds of bone meal and 5 to 6 pounds of wood ash for each 100 square feet of soil.
These fertilizers must be mix thoroughly with soil before planting. In subsequent years, you will need to be careful in applying the nutrients so as not to disturb the bulbs.
If you are naturalizing them in an open lawn situation, then your lawn fertilizer should be sufficient for this purpose. The size of the bulb determines the depth of planting.
The large bulbs no less than 4-5 inches, medium bulbs should be covered to a depth 3-4 inches, and small bulbs at a depth of 2-3 inches. The error that is made numerous times with the narcissi bulb is the planting of the bulb too close to the surface.
I would use a garden trowel or spade to plant the bulbs. When you’re placing the bulb into the hole, be sure the flattened side is down and the bulb has made beneficial contact between the base of the bulb and the soil.
Cultivating And Mulching
The cultivation of the narcissi bulb is not required other than to keep the weeds in check. The most beneficial thing you are able to do is leave a two inch winter mulch of straw, peat moss, leaves or other similar materials.
It’s exceedingly crucial during the first year following planting and particularly if the bulbs are planted late in the season. The best time is September or October maybe a little later in the southern time zones.
In the spring I’d remove all but one inch of the mulch. It aids in the preservation of moisture as well as adding a bit of organic matter.
Narcissi Bulb Flowers And Leaves Need To Be Removed
As the blooms begin to wilt, you should remove them. This enables the plant to appear healthier but also eliminates seed development. Seed yield only leads to smaller bulbs in the next season unless you’re in to collecting seed.
It’s possible to accumulate the mature seed capsules and plant for spring sprouting. This, naturally, calls for patience because the seeds will require several years to achieve flowering size.
The leaves themselves must remain until they become yellowish green or die away. This is a normal process permitting bulb development while the leaves manufacture plant food for the coming season. At the least, allow the leaves to stay on until one month after the blooming has concluded.
The best blooming years are the second, third, and fourth season. You may notice, starting in the fifth season, a gradual reduction in the size of the blooms and fewer blooms are being produced.
This is your clue to dig the bulbs as the foliage starts to die. This enables you to locate the narcissi bulb before the foliage entirely goes away. It is really difficult to find the bulbs at this point and you could damage them in your attempts to dig them up.
Storage is most important after taking out the bulbs from the soil. It’s necessary that you remove all remaining foliage immediately after digging.
The bulbs should be located in an airy and shady spot for several days. Then store them in a cool, airy, dry location without any sunlight. You are able to divide the bulblets from the mother bulb in storage.
These flowers in coming years will be of the same strain as the mother bulb. However, if you decide to test your skills with seedlings, you may discover a dissimilar character than the original mother bulb. Maybe you will discover the next “hot” narcissi bulb to hit the market.
This narcissi bulb shouldn’t be confused with the more common jonquil, Narcissus pseudonarcissus. This could be the reason people apply the term ‘Small Jonquil’ to discern the two.
The cup of this narcissi isn’t that big: generally one-half the length of the perianth petals. Each stem has 2 to 6 blooms with a perfectly delightful aroma. This narcissi needs a sunny location.
Flower color: yellow, white and yellow, yellow and orange Flowering period: April-June Average plant height: 10-13.8in (25-35 cm) Spacing between bulbs: 2-3in (5-7.5 cm)
Most significant cultivars: ‘Baby Moon’: golden yellow ‘Dickcissel’: yellow and white ‘Hillstar’: yellow and white ‘Pipit’: yellow and white ‘Quail’ : yellow on yellow ‘Sun Disc’: yellow on yellow ‘Suzy’’: golden yellow, bright orange cup ‘Sweetness’’: golden yellow
Even though this is a mixed grouping, the characteristics of one of the ancestors (N. tazetta) are still fairly recognizable. This narcissi always bears 4 to 8 blossoms to a stem, and all are sweet-scented. One cultivar, ‘Cragford’, is moderately sensitive to frost damage.
Flower color: white and yellow perianth colors with white, yellow or orange cups Flowering period: March-April Average plant height: 6-13.8in (15-35 cm) Spacing between bulbs: 2in (5 cm)
The world-famous Paperwhite narcissi also belongs to this group. This strongly scented narcissi isn’t winter hardy but is perfect for growing flowers in a short time period when grown indoors.
In climatic zones 9 and 10, however, they can also be planted outdoors in the garden. The other cultivars in this grouping are appropriate as garden plants, particularly for locating among perennial plants or for cutting.
Most significant cultivars: ‘Cragford’*: white perianth, vermilion-red cup ‘Geranium’: white perianth, orange cup ‘Grand Soleil d’Or’*: golden yellow, orange cup ‘Laurens Koster’: white-yellow ‘Minnow’’+: lemon-yellow, golden-yellow cup ‘Scarlet Gem’: pale yellow, orange cup.